in this video we're going to create an incrediblybright watercooled led light that not only looks really awesome, but is also extremelyversatile. its versatility is thanks to the use of liquid cooling to take the heat awayfrom the led, as it allows the light to be angled into a variety of different positions.another great feature of this light is that we'll be using an led that looks literallyidentical to sunlight. seriously, this thing is amazing - there have been several timeswhere i've used it on a cloudy day and have later been subconciously convinced that thesun's come out and is streaming through the window. seriously, it's crazy.this also makes it suitable for video and photography work, as colours are absolutelyspot on. it even allowed me to get this really
awesome timelapse, as the daisies too wereconvinced that it was actually sunlight. although this build is a little bit on theexpensive side compared to what i usually do, it's quickly risen to one of my favouriteand most used diy perks projects as it provides something very unique, and is a genuinelyuseful tool to have. the build process too is particularly interesting,especially when we get to making the custom brackets for the head, but before we begini just want to give a quick shoutout to videoblocks, who are kindly sponsoring this video. if you'venot heard of them before, they are a stock footage company offering not only stock footage butalso after effects templates, background plates, and more. they're perfect for youtubers asan entire years access to their whole library
is just $99, which is really affordable, andon top of that they're currently offering a one-week free trial with which you can downloadup to 140 clips, which is a great way to explore what they offer and you get to keep them afterwardswhich is fantastic. so if that sounds good to you, free to sign up at videoblocks.com/youtubeor by following the link in the description. right so, let's get on with building thislight. the first thing we'll need is obviously theliquid cooler itself. these are usually used for cooling high end computer processors,and you can find a link the one i used in the description.we'll be mounting it to a custom frame, for which we'll need a 1 meter length of angledaluminium.
the back of the cooler can then be placedat the middle of this length, and then a knife used to mark the position of its outer edges.we can then make some 90 degree v marks at these points like so, and then use a hacksaw to carefully cut them out. once they're both cut it's then just a caseof bending them both into 90 degree angles, after which the frame should match the widthof the radiator. to make the legs, the same can be done again,with one v at the end of the radiator and the other about 6cm further along.these can again be bent into 90 degree angles, after which it should look something likethis. as you can see, on the feet i have cut oneside of the angle off entirely - this basically
means that when the light is completed thefeet can be slid underneath objects on a shelf, meaning you can get it at a high lightingangle without resorting to a mount of some kind. it does make the legs less rigid though,and means that the light is a bit less stable, so if you don't want to mount the light underneatha shelf, i do recommend that you leave this step out.in any case, before we attach the cooler to it we need to sort out the led power circuitry.as the led we'll be using requires about 30v, we need to use a voltage booster. this basicallytakes a lower voltage and steps it up depending on the value of the indicated variable resistor,which you can adjust yourself. this not only allows us to use a variety of power sourcesto power the light, but also means that we
can add a knob that allows us to easily adjustthe brightness of the led. this board also has the ability to limit current,which is essential if you want to get the most out of these high power leds while protectingtheir longevity. as these boards are a little hard to find, i have as usual placed internationalpurchasing links in the description. so the first thing we'll need to add is theaforementioned brightness knob. we'll start by scraping off the glue around the base ofthe innermost variable resistor, and then bend it back and forth until it breaks free.some of you may want to desolder it instead, but as we won't be needing it again it's mucheasier to just take advantage of metal fatigue. after removing as much of the remaining glueas possible, we can solder three extension
wires to the outermost of the three solderpads. we now need two new variable resistors andalso a linear potentiometer, all with a value of 2kohms. these need to then be solderedto the extension wires as shown in this circuit diagram.we'll be using the two blue variable resistors to adjust the minimum and maximum brightnesspoints later on in the build, but for now we'll get started on making the platform thatthe voltage booster will be mounted to. so we'll get some short lengths of aluminiumangle and round off their corners with a file so that they fit snugly inside the front ofour frame. as these will later be screwed together, weneed to drill some holes through them both.
thanks to the three points of contact, theywill make the frame much more rigid. so we'll just unscrew them again for now,as it's time to work on the platform itself. to make it we'll first need to cut a rectangleout of some thin aluminium sheeting, after which we can drill some holes through ourshort supports into it so that we can again screw them together later.next we can place our voltage booster on the rectangle, and use a sharp point to mark outits mounting hole positions. we'll also need to mark the point directly underneath thevariable resistor so that we can adjust the output current later.once these are drilled through, we can make two more larger holes adjacent to them - onefor the potentiometer to fit through, and
the other for a power switch.after the supports have be screwed on with some screws and nuts, it should look somethinglike this, and the last thing to do is get some 15mm long pcb standoffs and securelymount them to the back like so. these standoffs will allow us to later attachthe voltage booster with the component side facing inwards, which will not only protectit, but also expose the bottom side of the voltage booster to the airflow from the radiator'sfan, which will keep it nice and cool. now we can screw our platform to the frame,after which it should look something like this.now as we'll later be using a microphone goose neck to support the led, we need to make amount with which we can later fix it to the
frame with.these goose necks use a fairly uncommon thread, so what we'll need first is an adapter thatconverts it into a standard one quarter inch unc thread instead.now we can get a small piece of aluminium angle and drill a hole in one side, graduallymaking it larger until the adapter can be pushed through. this can then be mounted tothe back of the frame using screws and nuts. now it's time to make the holes through whichwe'll attach the radiator. as the radiator has four fan holes on its top and bottom,we'll use the included fan as a template to mark where these holes should be on the frame.whilst we've got the drill out we might as well drill two pairs of holes on the sideand back. these will be used with cable ties
to later hold some wires in place.now we can add our electronics, starting with the power switch.a short length of wire needs to be soldered to one of its tabs, after which it can beinserted through the hole we made earlier. now we can add the input power connector,which is just a short length of wire with an xt60 socket soldered to the end. this needsto be soldered to the power input of the voltage booster, with the positive wire going throughthe switch. as you can see, i've also soldered two extra black wires to the input, whichwill later be used to power the pump and fan. now we need to get some more wire - i'm usingan old mains cables here by the way - and solder one end of it to the power output onthe voltage booster.
we can now screw the voltage booster to thestandoffs we added earlier, and after trimming off the unused legs on the variable resistors,we can mount our potentiometer as well, finishing it off by adding a knob.now we can use some cable ties through those holes we made earlier to hold the wires inplace, after which we can finally attach the radiator using its included screws.now things are going to get pretty interesting as we're reaching the final stages. as i mentioned earlier we're using a microphonegoose neck to support the led. it's perfect as it can be bent into different positionsand stay there, but it's also hollow, which means we can keep things neat by routing thewires down inside it.
the problem is that when we add our threadadapter one end gets blocked up, so what we'll do is drill three holes in the side of thebase for the wires to enter through instead. we'll start with the led's power wires, whichare hooked up to the output of the voltage booster. now a piece of stiff steel cablecan be pushed through from the other side of the gooseneck and clamped down onto thewire. the whole thing can then be pulled back through the neck, taking the wire with it.now you may have noticed the little green wire. it has two cores inside, and is thereto later carry power to the pump, which resides in the cooling pad.now that's done we can attach the gooseneck to the frame using the thread adapter anda quarter inch unc nut.
now it's time to start my favourite part ofthis build, which is to make the head. it's essentially a custom bracket for the coolingpad, and actually makes the head look quite cool.to make it, we'll start by printing off the template i have included in the description- it needs to be printed without any scaling, and you can use the included measuring boxto make sure it's printed at the right size. these templates need to be then stuck ontosome 6mm thick mdf using double sided tape. you don't have to use mdf, but it is the mostpractical option for most people as it's easy to cut yet sturdy enough for this application.notice that there are coloured dots on each shape - these mark the hole points that needto be drilled through, and you can see the
required bit size by referring to the includedkey. a coping saw can then be used to carefullycut out the shapes, and after giving them a good sanding down you should end up withsomething like this. notice that the smaller bracket has a countersunkhole in the middle. this is because we'll be using another thread adapter on the gooseneckto attach it to the brackets later. having it countersunk allows its thread to be exposedas it's not quite tall enough to just reach through the mdf on its own. the easiest wayto make this countersink is by using a spade bit.now that both brackets have been cut it's time to prepare them for spraying by givingthem at least five thin layers of undercoat.
this undercoat can then by sanded down usingsome fine grit sandpaper until it's almost plastic like in appearance.they can now be sprayed with whatever colour you like. i went with a black satin finishas it gives the appearance of some kind of painted metal, and looks pretty good i'd say!so now we need four 20mm long threaded rod connectors, four 12mm long flanged head screws,and four washers, all of which need to be m5.after inserting our goose neck adapter into the smaller bracket, we can thread our screwsthrough from the other side, add a washer, and then screw on the rod connectors.next we need to push our wires through the hole, and screw the bracket tightly to thegoose neck. this gives us a fantastic mount
to which we can attach the rest of the head.the next thing we can do is wire up the pump that's in the cooling pad. the connector ituses is a standard computer fan connector, where the middle wire is positive, and thewire marked with a 1 is negative. this connector needs to be chopped off and the wires thensoldered to the green dual core wire that i mentioned earlier.any excess can be pulled down inside the gooseneck to keep things neat.the liquid cooler comes with mounting hardware for both amd and intel processors - as ourdiy brackets have been designed for the amd hardware, we'll get the amd brackets and insertthe included plastic retainers into its holes like so.now what we need to do is get four more flange
head m5 screws, this time 25mm long, and pushthem through the large holes on our other mdf bracket, which can then be inserted throughthe amd bracket. to pull the plastic tabs into the holes onthe mdf, we can squeeze them together using a wingnut. it's quite a tight fit but it doesdo the trick. the whole thing can then be locked into thenotches on the cooling pad, and then tightly screwed to the rod connectors using an allenkey. it should now look something like this, and it's finally time to add the led.pretty much any similar style 100w led emitter can be used here, but for the best resultsi highly recommend the ones made by yuji led, as they have absolutely fantastic colour rendition.they are more expensive than the cheap ones
you can get from places like ebay, but asi found out in a previous video they are well worth the extra, and i can't recommend themenough. to mount the led it's just a case of pushingit down onto the pre-applied paste on the cooling pad, and then soldering the powerwires to it. make sure that you get the polarity correct though as it won't light up otherwise.now we need to add a lens to focus the light forwards. as you can see this thing is huge,and as it's designed specifically for these leds it comes with a suitable reflector andmounting bracket. you can find a link to it in the description.the reflector has four little prongs on the bottom, which can be inserted into the matchingholes already present on the led.
once that's done we can place the lens ontop following it up with the bracket. now we need four 25mm long m4 screws withaccompanying dome nuts and washers, which can be used to clamp the lens and reflectorin place. now we can add the fan. as i mentioned earlierthis came with the liquid cooler, and it's just a case of using the included screws toattach it to the radiator. i am however using an extra fan grille as it will protect theblades if something were to touch them. looking good!so now the last thing to do is sort out the power source for both the fan and pump.what we'll use for this is a little voltage regulator. this works similarly to the voltagebooster we're using to power the led, only
this one is much less powerful and actuallyreduces the voltage rather that boosting it. so after setting it to output 12v, we cansolder the input pads to those additional wires we added to the bigger voltage boosterearlier. to its output pads we can then solder thepump and fan. the pinout for the fan by the way can be found in the description.we can now glue it to the frame with a piece of cork in between to act as an insulator,and with that the light is pretty much complete. but, before we power it on we need to calibrateour power circuitry so that the led is driven with the perfect amount of current.to do this is really simple, and we'll start by cutting through the positive wire thatgoes to the led. i know, we literally just
put this thing together and we're alreadycutting it up, but it's the only way to check the led's current properly as it does needto be cooled at the same time. we can then hook these wires up to a multimeterso that the current flows through the multimeter rather than directly going to the led.now we can insert a little screwdriver into that hole we made earlier on our voltage boosterplatform use it to twist the remaining variable resistor on the voltage booster fully clockwise.you should hear a little click click on every full turn once it's at its maximum.we can do the same to both of our extra variable resistors that we added earlier, but thistime they need to be adjusted fully anti-clockwise we're now ready to power on the led for thefirst time, but before we do that we obviously
need a power source.the light accepts a dc current rated at anything between 12 and 24v, which allows you to useanything from an old laptop adapter to a car battery. the only requirement is that it needsto comfortably provide at least 110w. i'm going to use an old printer power brickthat outputs 8a at 15v, meaning that it can supply 120w, which is perfect for the led.as it had a proprietary connector on the output side, i chopped it off and replaced it withan xt60 connector instead. after plugging it into the light and turningon the power switch, the fan and pump will fire up, as will the led. you should heara sort of bubbly noise at first as well from the pump - this is normal and it's a goodindicator of it all working properly, and
it will quieten down after a minute.the multimeter's display should be telling you that the led is drawing about 1a, andat the moment turning the brightness knob shouldn't really do anything.so, we'll make sure that the brightness knob is at its maximum, and then slowly turn thevariable resistor on the voltage booster anti-clockwise. you should start to see the led increase inbrightness, and the multimeter should show an increase in current as you go. you needto keep going until the multimeter registers 3a, as this is the maximum that the led israted for. now with the maximum current limited to 3a,we can adjust the output voltage range so that the led dims properly when our brightnessknob is adjusted.
with the brightness knob still set at itsmaximum point, we'll grab the variable resistor that's wired up in series with the potentiometerand adjust it clockwise until the current starts to dip. we'll then backtrack slightlyuntil it starts to level off. we want to get it as close to this levelling off point aspossible, so it may be necessary to backtrack back and forth until you get it right.now we can turn the brightness knob to its minimum value, and then grab the other preset- the one that's connected to the potentiometer in parallel, and then begin turning it clockwise.the multimeter should show the current dropping as you do this, and the led will decreasein brightness accordingly. this variable resistor basically sets the minimum brightness levelof the led, so you can adjust it to your personal
preference. i adjusted mine so it was justslightly glowing. once you're happy the variable resistors canbe tucked away under the radiator. the knob should now smoothly adjust the brightnessfrom maximum to minimum, with the current itself capping itself at 3a.now all we've got to do is re-attach our cut wire, making it look neat by using some heatshrink.see, that cut wasn't so bad after all was it?and with that, the light is complete and looking awesome!now before we wrap this up it's worth noting that it's also pretty easy to make a wallmount for it. this can be made by chopping off the outeredges on a piece of angled aluminium, which
can then be screwed to a wall. the light'slegs can then be hooked under it, allowing it to quickly become a pretty interestinglooking lighting fixture. right so i hope you've enjoyed this video.it was really hard to make due to its length - it took quite a long time - but i'm reallyhappy with the project, as i built it in december and i've used it in every video i've madesince then so it's been actually a genuinely useful production tool. i didn't really coverthe brightness of this in the video, but it's ridiculously bright - brighter than the 100wflashlight i made a while ago, which was equivalent to about 1000w if it was an incandescent lightbulb- and that's because the led is more efficient because it's a yuji led and they're much betterquality.
i would like to make a bigger version of this,still using watercooling, kind of quite eccentric perhaps, with maybe 10 leds, but i might needyuji's help for that as they are relatively expensive leds so yuji if you're watchingi would really like to pursue this so send an email or something if you're interested.right so i think that's it for this video, i've got some really exciting ones comingup in the next few months, so stay tuned for those, but other than that i will see youin the next video. goodbye for now! if you'd like to see another of my projects,then why not check out this one in which i show you how to make some really beautifulmushroom lights. alternatively, if music is more your thing, then what about making aunique concrete volume knob to bring back
that analogue feel to your audio? they'reboth worth a watch, so i hope you enjoy them!